Hey chaps this thread will be for our team drivers to share set up tips and little mods because we are the future

Johnny two jackets

Hi Chaps and fellow red coats

The fuel cap is a fairly good design and has a clever breather and one way valve located inside the large fuel tank cap. A little protector cap is glued into the cap and needs a simple mod to make it really clever.

Carefully cut throught the little cover with a junior hack saw but be sure just to only cut through the surface of the little cover all around the circumfrance and when it drops off you can carefully remove the rest of the cap bits from the hole by prizing them out carefully with a small screwdriver, exposing a lovely nipple....
Nipples are the future !

Then simple clean out the valve to get rid of any little bits of plastic swarf and them attach a bit of flexible hose to the nipple and route it like you would any other large scale breather pipe.
You can suck and blow to test the action of the non return valve in the cap.
If you are lucky like me you can use a lathe to make a tidy job of cleaning up the cap

So todays tip is.....
Expose the Nipple then suck and blow and this will make your ride even better

Johnny two coats

Another contrast red coat tip is coming soon

Over in Spain at the efra gp, Dani (Mr Contrast!)had available some of the anticipated parts from the early testing/developement of the new car:-

5mm longer/stronger front shock shafts
7mm longer/stronger rear shock shafts
Steel steering turn buckles
New wing (very good)

He had boxes of all of them, so they'll be available now or extremely soon

Ian

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the heads up..... weve got the wings already one of the best i have seen... well done Dani

Regards

John

Hi Guys. the rear double spring is spaced with a sliding joiner, this part slides over the threaded body and when new can feel slightly rough, i have found by using a small scapel, cut a very small ( 2mm) 30 degree chamfer on the top and bottom inner edge, this can be done by holding the knife stationary and then rotate the joiner past the blade, it takes a couple of seconds to do and after that it runs nice and smooth.

cheers, Mike HF Racing.

Hi guys,

I remembered to share with you the setup that Dani sent me as a base setup for me to start.

It's the setup that Lluis Franquesa used at the EFRA GP in Spain and finished second.



He also mentioned 2mm piston holes in the shocks and DLD Maxisplinter soft's all around.

Regards

Thanks Pikeno

Info like this is very good to help other contrast drivers get a good basic set up

Regards

John

Contrast Off Road Dealer (UK)

Here is another little tip which just may save the day.

on the throttle linkage down at the servo put a short piece (6mm - 8mm)of nitro fuel tube over the rod on the pull side between thecollet and the horn adaptor, this little gem may just save your throttle arm from being snapped off the carb on very rough tracks at WOT

Red is the new Blue !

Another option is to make sure there's a Z bend in the throttle wire, and that will straighten out slightly if too much load is put on it or when you crash/cart wheel saving the throttle spindle being snapped off nect to the E clip.

On the contrast you need to put a slight Z in the wire to clear the tank cap, just make sure it's more pronounced than really needed.

Ian

Hi , thanks ian, yeah your dead right on the stock setup, i have used a lifter post to get a straight line between throttle and servo, thats why i use the rubber as a saver.

also a tip for the brake pipe connections, if you have any worries that the little festo quick couplings may come apart mid race, just fit some "E" clips behind the push to release front nose of each connector, they are then locked solid. use slightly over size "E" 's so that you can grab them quick with a pair of needle nose pliers should you want to replace a length of brake pipe.

with a pair of pliers at hand it takes only 10 - 15 seconds to remove all 6.


RED is the new GREEN !

Heres another little tip that i done to the Droop screws.

instead of fitting the standard nut to the droop screws as a locknut, carefully wind a Nylock nut on to the adjuster bolt with the nylock bit first, so backwards onto the bolt, it helps to wind it onto the bolt normally fist to start a thread on the nylon bit. its a bit fiddly. but when done it will lock well on to the adjuster.

(the reason for putting the nut on backwards is so that it is the right way round to mate against the wishbone arm.

and i have found it holds a setting better by locking better, also if you need to unwind the adjuster your setting is held on the bolt, when the adjuster is wound back to the nylock lock nut your setting is almost spot on. just a slight nip with the spanner and its locked.

RED is the Future ! ! !
(even the Team5hite logo shows that)

Hey Mike we will have to show Doc our "RED" super soakers
as that is a good tip for this weekend...
I gota feeling its going to be a tough one

Johnny

Dont listen to me

Gaskets are cheaper than engines.

remember to check the the carb to airfilter adaptor has a suitable gasket and spacer.

as i found out to my cost, when it was too late.

how many more tips are there before its a proper race ready car










































































































































































here we go