Now then, i want to get hold of 1m- 6mm round tempered spring steel bar.
tried and tried but prices have been crazy on such a small amount. has to be heat treated so it is sprung.
cheers,
carpy.

Try RS caroy, I'm over there tomorrow, I'll have a look and see if they have it..

Cheers steve, it's bloody hard to get hold of. Even half a metre will do to have a play with. Thing is, it's supplied un treated so you can bend it first then spring it when you have the shape. Just want a straight sprung bit.
Did you get my text steve? Looks spot on
cheers,
carpy.

Rs don't have anything like that, you'd be better off doing a search for model engineer supplies on the internet. Several of those stock it and will sell it in small pieces

You'll probably find that a lot are sized in swg sizes though, so check that it's actualy in mm not just close to and is really a swg size

Ian.

Carpy

What the hell are you makin old chap
bumpers ..... or ben hur swords for the wheels or wot

Johnny

Stll trying to find a cure for the eternal pin bending problem on the hormann. Yes I know I should buy a fuego john
tried just about every kind of steel now, figure if it's springy it'll bend then straighten out again. Genious!!!!!
Ian thank you for the advice,I don't know what swg is. But I'm willing to learn

SWG stands for 'standard wire gauge', an old fashioned way of measuring wire thickness but still used a lot even today, especially enameled copper wire and spring steal. Works in reverse of logic though, eg, 24swg is thinner than 10swg

Use silver steal for the pins, much stronger than regular steal, can be threaded/machned if the tools are sharp. Anything stronger will just break something else if/when you do crash

Ian

Carpy,

try this contact, i have used him in the past.
Worth a try

Steve
BSS Steelstrip

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tel 01709 324379

There has got to be an answer to the bending pin syndrome, and perhaps you are on the right track
I know Jason has made upgraded bulkheads, but i dont think he has made any upgraded pins, but its worth asking him.

Just a thought, could you use the next size up in diameter rod say something like...... 1/2"
Seriously i know you can get rods in most sizes and just by increasing the rod dia by 1mm makes a big difference.

Johnny

the problem is carpy, if you strengthen the pins, then the alloy takes the hit and snaps (trust me , i have tried it)
i would prefer to replace pins at a couple of quid than an arm at 50

thanks for the guidance chaps i have tried silver steel, i found it bent as much as the stainless that various people have given me to try. i fully understand the point about breaking alloy but i have never bent an 08 arm even using hardened steel bolts! trouble with the bolts is theyre slightly under 6mm and are floppier than i'd like. obviously i'm hoping sprung steel will give/bend that bit on impact then spring back so i dont have to change the sodding pins every time.

If you really want to go this route have you considered using hardened and ground hss drill blanks!

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based in London should be able to help.

Hi john, I have tried hardened steel bolts but they were slightly floppy for some reason, guess they shrink a bit during tempering? Also they bent! I'm assuming drill blanks would be really hard and brittle. Don't want that, want something that will spring back.

John, I emailed your contact but got no reply. ....
So still no sprung steel. Hmmm.....

Ohhhh CARPY

just buy a contrast because they dont bend pins
just think of all the money you would save
Perhaps some clever chap could copy contrasts idea of the spring loaded top arm which i believe takes some of the grief resulting from frontal impact.

Johnny

Hi Carpy

Without getting into heavy materials science here, there are a number of things to consider with your trials to date.

The shank diameter of a bolt/capscrew is actually manufactured slightly undersize to allow for the thread rolling process used to produce the thread form by material deformation.
This reduction can range between 0.05 to 0.15mm depending on the chosen material's ductility.

High tensile bolts are manufacted from a material where their heat treatment is aimed at high core strength and not hardness. If you want hardness by heating and quenching but not tempering back they will be as brittle as glass, well close too anyway.

High speed steel (hss) drill blanks are produced from a material designed to be through hardened to produce a regrindable wear resisting cutting edge and a very high resistance to bending, they are provided in a hardened condition.
We are not talking here about cheap jobber drills that are not particularly hard or resistant to bending.

For a precision ground 6mm hss blank you are talking two and a half quid a piece.

So, unless you try them you will never know!

Here endeth the lesson from an old sad geek!

Fu@k a rat! That's some serious lessonage! Thank you john.
i think everyone is missing the point, a point that I have tried to spell out several times I want something that is going to BEND then Spring back. If I can't get any springy stuff I shall try drill blanks.

Santa john, give me a contrast for Christmas and I'll sit on your lap and Karen will let you give her a muffin